After more than twenty years, there will be no Black Barn Market this summer.

Here, excerpted from an announcement sent to the market’s friends and collaborators, is how the team described its situation.

“After much talking and analysis, we have sadly come to the conclusion that we are going to have to close the Black Barn Market for the coming summer – and perhaps beyond.

“Quite simply, we can’t find enough local growers of fresh quality vegetables and produce to make it viable and to make it the unique market we all want it to be.

“Whether it is a change since the cyclone, whether it is the current market conditions, whether it is a shift in how Hawke’s Bay produce is grown and distributed or whether it was our fault – we simply couldn’t find enough of them.

“We feel a ‘shift in the wind’ in how Hawke’s Bay produce is grown and distributed to continue to make it viable – this could be a good thing, but we have a feeling it makes the prospect of a single grower, growing and selling a single unit directly to a single customer, increasingly challenging.

“This might be the end of a market. Or it might be the end of an era. We’ll see.

And if things change, we’ll see you next year!”

So, a note of optimism at the end.

But, as BayBuzz talks to other Hawke’s Bay foodies, it does seem forces are at work that reach beyond the specifics of Black Barn.

Firstly, convenience options for purchasing fresh fruit and produce, organic if that’s your preference, are more abundant … and even having it boxed for you and delivered. Convenience versus ambiance … the overall ‘experience’.

Certainly, the cyclone was a ‘last straw’ to some exiting small operators, the damage done and recovery effort required compounded by an ‘ageing’ farmer/grower’ profile with ‘next generation’ replacements few and far between.

With time and staff in short supply, simple issues of scale and reward for effort have arisen. Mobilising for a few hours each Saturday and/or Sunday morning to sell produce to a gaggle of browsers more attracted by the social and brunch ‘experience’ than the produce is probably not high yield financially for most growers. What do you buy at the market … waffles and kebabs or fresh peppers and carrots?

One farmers’ market ‘old hand #1’ commented to BayBuzz: 

“Back at the beginning of local Farmers’ Markets, in 2000, it was already difficult to find growers that were focused on supplying the local market. Harder still to find growers that would run a stall at a market during an already busy harvest season. 

“There is a one, and only one, clear indicator that a market is thriving. That is, that fresh produce stalls are making good money. And I believe that this type of market in Hawke’s Bay has never been profitable enough for primary produce growers to keep them growing.”

Market ‘old hand #2’ echoed this observation: “The bottom line is that stallholders have to see the beneficial  financial equation to justify market attendance … it is common knowledge that getting and holding fresh fruit and vege stall holders is very hard nowadays. The smaller grower/producer in fruit and veges is indeed an endangered species. Frankly it is hard work, the cost structures to set up and then maintain to operation  are significant.” 

‘Old hand #2’ continued:

“The wind shifted with the closure of local produce auction floors, more than thirty years ago, and with the centralised procurement of produce for supermarkets. Small local growers had the rug pulled from beneath them and wound down operations. So by the year 2000 and the inception of Black Barn and the local Farmers’ Market the foundations were already weak. Growers’ and Farmers’ Markets evolved into deli-on-the-lawn brunch spots. Lovely to visit but sustainable? Apparently not.”

Black Barn noted it had considered other options.

“To fill [the market] with more brunch ‘eat here’ offerings would be unfair on our existing providers as it would simply cannibalise their shared customers. To fill it with additional giftware, glassware and trinkets would be against everything we have wanted the market to be.

“And to be blunt, we would rather close than compromise.”

In an interview with BayBuzz, Black Barn Market’s energiser for decades, Frayne Dyke-Walker, was emotional in her gratitude to the providers who have supplied the market over many years and in her concern especially for the well-being of the producers set back by the cyclone.

Kim Thorp, Frayne and Bettina Messervy concluded their announcement with thanks.

“The Black Barn Market has been running successfully every Saturday over summer for more than 20 years. We thank every single grower, producer, baker and coffee maker who has supported us over that time.

“As we’ve always explained, the Market was never about making money for Black Barn. It was about celebrating our region and showcasing the amazing produce we can grow here – and as a result of that we all win.”

Here’s a video reminder of the Black Barn Market.