With the advent of spring comes an annual reminder that our insatiable desire for the new is contributing to the destruction of the planet that is our only home. It’s a mere drop in the ocean in comparison to the ravages of corporate greed, but at least eschewing newly minted things in favour of the pre-loved is a small, practical step we can take to combat the omnipresent dread when faced with the reality of an environment becoming increasingly uninhabitable as a result of our actions.
Second Hand September is an initiative launched in 2019 by anti-poverty charity and overseas op-shop giant Oxfam. They challenge participants to self-impose a thirty day embargo on purchasing new clothing, inviting them to share their thrifted purchases on social media.
The benefits are clear. Practically every piece of clothing bought new in this country is manufactured elsewhere, in someone else’s hell, and you can bet the lion’s share of those low low prices end up in corporate pockets. Anyone giving over money to conglomerates who peddle fast fashion – almost disposable clothing – is willingly participating in modern day slavery.
Many of these items are made from oil-based fabrics, consuming fossil fuels in their manufacture, and releasing microplastics into the environment when disposed of. And much fast fashion is not made to last, as evidenced by landfill pits brimming with rags, defecating on the developing world.
Buying second hand at least does not reward those who exploit workers, and diverts clothing from the dump. Things that have been pre-loved have also passed a stress test of sorts. If something is going to fall apart it will almost certainly do so straight away. If it lasts one lifetime it most likely will last many more. This is particularly true of children’s things.
So now that you are hopefully convinced to participate, how does one wean oneself off new things while still satiating the desire for consumption?
Spring clean your wardrobe
Unless you’re a Marie Kondo aficionado you’re probably sitting on a pile of stuff you never wear. Perhaps you went through a purple phase, or tiny imps have been sneaking into your wardrobe sewing all your clothing tighter in the night. Be ruthless. Keep only that which is useful or sparks joy, and get those old pieces back into circulation on someone else’s back.
Host a swop party
One man’s trash is another man’s treasure. Have a get together with similarly sized and style minded friends, divest yourselves of unwanted garments and fall in love with something new to you. Bring a plate and a bottle and make a night of it. Just don’t leave it to your host to pack up all the leftovers and bring them to the op-shop the next day.
Op-shopping
The clue’s in the name, it’s all about opportunity. It’s always a better plan to go in with an open mind than to have something specific you are searching for. Make friends with an op-shop worker and get them to keep an eye out if you do have something you really need. Many op-shops are volunteer run with the proceeds going to charity, enhancing the do-good, feel-good factor.
Napier’s Thackery Street has a good run, as does Taradale. Hastings and Napier’s Cranford Hospice shops are exceptional, both in content and layout. SaveMart is on the pricier end and has a more tenuous connection to charity, in that they receive and sort clothing from the blue bins you see dotted about. To be clear, this is a business, not a social enterprise, but it is really vast and has a better selection of menswear than many op-shops.
Why is there a dearth of clothing made for men secondhand? Do men tend to buy one set of clothes and wear them until they’re buried in them? While women tend to purchase clothing for emotional rather than functional reasons? This gross generalisation says more about socialisation than gender. If today’s beautiful youth are anything to go by, hopefully soon we will have no need for gender segregated clothing racks.
Designer resale stores
If you just can’t face fossicking through rows and rows of op-shop dross then let someone else do it for you. Several of these stores have popped up across the Bay, sometimes selling on behalf. This can be an opportunity if you have something truly beautiful that no longer fits, but is too good to give away. Typically these boutiques take a 40-50% commission, similar to a dealer gallery. Prices are a decent cut above the op-shop but a fraction of what it would cost to buy this quality new. Remember, you’re not just paying for the product but for the time, care and attention it took to find it. The best of these to my mind is Garment, next to the Masonic in Napier. Nicely styled and thoughtfully curated for quality, the staff are knowledgeable and welcoming. Roundabout in Ahuriri, Story in Hastings and Nostalgia in Havelock are also worth a look.
Vintage stores
Several little gems have blossomed around the Bay of late, showcasing an array of finery from decades past. There’s a peculiar thrill to acquiring the perfect vintage find. Rather than following the trend, retro makes a statement that good style never goes out of fashion. Prepare to pay top dollar for period pieces, their uniqueness is reflected in the price. Decorum, opposite the MTG, is a two-storey wonderland specialising in Art Deco styles, well worth a visit. Old Flames, on Dalton Street, is akin to stepping back in time. Channelling a sepia tinged dateless past, and styled to perfection, there’s plenty to look at and to try on. Spoilt Victorian Child has an equally enchanting oasis in Napier’s suburbs, carrying a collection curated to perfection by an exquisite eye. Access to the boutique is by appointment only with the occasional open day, a wonderful excuse to rub shoulders with stylish acquaintances. Both Spoilt Victorian Child and Old Flames also sell online.
Online
TradeMe and Facebook Marketplace are awash with the unwanted things of others. Caveat Emptor should be top of mind – there’s no going back and you can’t try before you buy. There are a number of local Instagram accounts posting items for sale which could be viewed and tried before purchase. Lora Calora Vintage features high fashion with a European twist in small sizes. Jubilee Vintage harkens to New Zealand’s past with a quirky nostalgic eye. Stella Bell Finds shows nineties and noughties style appealing to a youthful crowd.
Upcycling
This practice of reworking the old and broken to make something new and beautiful has gained traction. You can have a go yourself if you’re handy with a needle and thread. There are plenty of YouTube tutorials to guide you. Or you can invest in someone else’s thrifty hard work. Some of the ingenuity in this field is mind boggling. Isle of Bohemia creates a range of items including device cases and bags from vintage lace. Byrez makes eclectic jewellery from discarded plastic bottles. Coco & Co on Hastings’ Heretaunga Street East 200 Block and The Department of Curiosities and Fine Things, on Napier’s Hastings Street carry a wide selection of upcycled items.
Markets
Keep eyes out for these as they pop up throughout the year. Happy Daze Vintage Market creates a whole vibe, with a bar, DJ and food truck making an event of your Sunday afternoon. This Saturday My Walk in Wardrobe is taking over Hastings’ Showgrounds from 10am-2pm, showcasing stalls of second hand, upcycled and handmade goods from a variety of the Bay’s creatives.
Unmentionables…
Let’s talk undies. They do sell these second hand but does anyone really want to buy them? There’s something deeply disconcerting about the row of voluminous bloomers spuriously pegged to pants hangers lurking in the dark recesses of the op-shop. So should we wear our underwear thin or just go commando for the sake of Second Hand September? If none of these options appeal you could do worse than invest in dea, a local enterprise, hand making undergarments from organic, ethically sourced materials. Built to last and free from exploitation of either people or planet, these are true to the spirit if not the letter of Second Hand September.