[As published in Summer 2025/26 BayBuzz magazine.]
Could 2025 be The One?
That was the headline from Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers back in March 2025 when the fruit from the season was still coming through the winery doors. There were rumours and rumblings that 2025 could potentially unseat and overtake the mighty 2013 as ‘the vintage of the century’.
And to be fair, after the soggy 2022 season and the devastating 2023 cyclone, we were well overdue for good news on the grape front, right? 2024 was an excellent vintage, yet precious few grapes grew on the vines. So a word to the wise, those 2024 wines, whilst delicious and rolling out now, will be gone in a flash.
So all eyes were on 2025. We needed a vintage showing vavoom and volume and we needed it yesterday. When Brent Linn, CEO of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, took a road trip around our local wineries during the 2025 harvest in an attempt to measure the vibe first hand, what he encountered were some who came out swinging with words like “potential to be legendary”, a “beautiful season”, a “classic year” and “really exciting”.
Peter Robertson was in the midst of his 51st harvest when Brent asked if 2025 could be The One. “Ask me again once we’re through ferment” he replied in his typically reserved, unruffled manner. Yet he did say that the fruit coming in was ‘exceptional’ and had the promise of making great wines.
That promise began early too. For the team at Craggy Range it was their earliest harvest on record where despite the cooler summer picking kicked in on February 8th with their Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay. Volume-wise, we’re back on track, according to Sally Duncan, Chair of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers. “Our wonderful and talented wine community will put Hawke’s Bay’s name and reputation on over 32 million bottles of wine this vintage. That’s 32 million bottles of Hawke’s Bay sunshine, terroir and talent gracing tables and celebrations across New Zealand and worldwide – while contributing over half a billion dollars to the region’s GDP.”
As for how 2026 is shaping up? Linn says the prospects for the 2026 vintage are very positive at this early stage of the growing season. “Good chilling with a colder than normal winter saw bud break about a week later than in 2025, but more in line with long term experience and a nice, uniform bud break has set the season up well,” he reckons.
For your wine drinking pleasure
It’s early November at the time of writing and I’ve only managed to taste a handful of local wines from 2025 (hot tip: look out for the Monowai Vivaz Field Blend and the Village Vineyards Pinot Gris and Rosé), but I have had the pleasure of tasting a bunch from 2024 and earlier vintages, which are just being released now, so here’s a snapshot of what I think you should have a crack at sipping. Enjoy!
Ash Ridge Elodie Sparkling Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2025 $30
Leith Ashworth and his team have crafted a bright, berry-forward and brilliantly balanced, blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Viognier, and Flora (once mistaken for pinot gris) that’s been expertly crafted and an absolute crisp cracker. Great length of flavour, zesty raspberry notes, cherry and cleansing minerality make it a must for Summer celebrations. ashridgewines.com
Brookfields Gold Label Reserve Vintage Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2023 $70
This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc is lucky to be alive. Why? Because on Feb 14th, just weeks before the fruit was due to be harvested, the most catastrophic cyclone in 80 years roared through the region, putting Brookfields underwater. However, after everything dried out, the reds were able to ripen and concentrate under the Autumn sun to their full potential. So, from a weather bomb vintage comes one of the greats. Scented with blueberry, blackberry, ironsands and graphite goodness, soft smoke, dark cocoa, seasoned leather, ushering in blue and black fruits, charred olives, dusty carpenter’s workshop and showing deliciously suede-like, sandy tannins and a gum-tingling finish that lingers so long you may as well offer it breakfast. brookfieldsvineyards.co.nz
Wairiki Wines La Briar Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2025 $28
Located on gravel terraces high above the Ngaruroro, this tiny vineyard is blessed with a small stream that runs through it in winter — hence the name ‘Wairiki’, or ‘little water’ in Te Reo Māori. Pretty in Pink wasn’t just one of the best films of the ‘80s; it’s also this wine, which boasts generosity, juicy-crisp apple ripeness, zesty layers and soft, fleshy spices leading to a long, dry mouthfeel. Trout pink, it’s a fabulously fleshy, fuller-style fashioned from Pinot Noir that’s elegantly proportioned and gorgeous with gazpacho. wairiki.co.nz
Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2024 $24
Merlot fans ahoy! You can absolutely taste the sunshine in this plum-fest of a wine. Laced with chocolate, Christmas cake spices, soft pepper, liquorice layers and suede-like tannins to finish. It definitely over-delivers for the dosh. trinityhill.com
Village Vineyards Golden Queen Organic Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2024 $35
Golden by name and golden by nature, this certified organic and deliciously dry Pinot Gris was grown by the team at Osawa Vineyard in Mangatahi. Think nashi, nutmeg, a hint of quince and apple strudel notes, it’s all here in this wine. A 10% splash of juice fermented in older barrels adds extra depth and complexity. It’s crisp, cleansing and crunchy-fresh. Villagevineyards.co.nz
Smith & Sheth Cru Omahu Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021 $80
If you’re a fan of densely textural syrah then this will soothe the throat, clear the nose and shiver all your timbers. Crafted by Steve Smith MW and his team, from fruit grown in one of the holy trinity of Hawke’s Bay vintages (2019/2020/2021), this Syrah roars with dark fruit, smoked vanilla, aromatic cedar, cracked pepper and Dutch cocoa with graphite dust and gorgeously fresh blueberry, black olive, baking spices and a lacing of cedar. The tannins are sandy and add to its ultra-long, beautifully balanced, softly saline finish. smithandsheth.com
Zaria Hawke’s Bay Malbec Rosé 2025 $25
Despite its ultra-pretty, candied watermelon colour, this rosé is absolutely banging with flavour. Because it’s been made with Malbec grown in the iron-rich soils of Bridge Pa, (rather than a milder grape like Pinot Noir) it is so much richer than you’d ever think a rosé could be. Bright raspberry, cleansing cherry, soft white pepper, a lick of red apple and a long, dry, juicy finish make this one of my star finds of the year. zaria.co.nz
Elephant Hill Sea Hawke’s Bay Viognier 2024 $34 Clearly, Viognier thrives under the baking Hawke’s Bay sun and in the saline sea breezes roaring in from the Te Awanga coastline, and winemaker Hugh Crichton knows exactly how to capture its unique jasmine, citrus zest and apricot-stacked excellence, well, excellently. The new Sea is superbly restrained, showing ballerina-like balance and supple, juicy textures laced with orange oil, a frisky finish and pairs perfectly with an afternoon of listening to the new Lily Allen album. Stunning stuff. elephanthill.co.nz
Monowai Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2024 $25
Winemaker and owner Emma Lowe has created a bold, peach-and cashew-crammed style with refreshing acidity, ribbons of buttered toast dusted with cinnamon, and a finish that’s like a marathon being run in your mouth. Tropic-tastic and softly spiced, it’s a fantastic chardonnay from an awesome vintage. Pop it into the fridge for 45 minutes, pour into the good glasses, and enjoy with chicken and tarragon mayo sandwiches. monowai.co.nz
Linden Estate Hawke’s Bay Grüner Veltliner 2024 $32
Clearly there’s a little bit of Austrian awesome happening in our own Esk Valley, and winemaker Alex Hendry is creating a happy home for it in the winery. White gold in the glass and roaring with white florals, meadow grasses, a hint of green apple and white pepper and a splash of nashi rounds out this crunchy-crisp, intensely aromatic, dry-but-generous white style. Cleansing and crazy-good. lindenestatewinery.co.nz
